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De Fermo’s luscious but nervy “Concrete” Bianco comprises 60% Pecorino, 30% Chardonnay, and 10% assorted indigenous varieties (Trebbiano, Verdicchio, Manzoni Bianco, and Grenache Gris) from 2.5 hectares worth of vines averaging 30 years of age. Harvested slightly earlier than the fruit destined for the majestic “Don Carlino” and “Launegild” bottlings, it ferments with indigenous yeasts and without temperature control, and spends six months in concrete tank without sulfur additions. Bright, salty, and mouth-filling, it offers a wonderful example of De Fermo’s approach in miniature, deftly balancing its delicate floral elements with a more elemental expression of their commune’s notable limestone minerality.